Diors new creative director the first female in its 70-year history to hold the post is fascinated by modern women and how she can reflect their lives in the clothes she makes
It is Christian Dior who gazes down gravely from the portrait in oils, whose dresses are in the silver-framed photographs that sit at an elegant slant beneath the white orchids, and whose name is stamped in distinctive sharp-serifed font on the reception desk at Dior HQ on Rue de Marignan. But the living, breathing creative force of todays Christian Dior, who darts in shaking the rain out of her tousled bob, is a woman. Whats more, Maria Grazia Chiuri is nothing like the full-skirted, doe-eyed figure whose image is conjured up by the name Dior. She wears a black sheepskin coat, flat buckled black shoes and black trousers with a Mod-sharp crease.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is here to reinvent Christian Dior. A house that has been selling feminine charm since 1947 has a woman in charge for the very first time. We walk the curved staircase to the first floor, into a salon with three tall white-shuttered windows, where oval-backed Louis XVI chairs are grouped gracefully around a generous expanse of freshly beeswaxed parquet.
On the staircase we passed Willy Maywalds famous photograph of 40s Dior house model Renee, her feet posed in a balletic fourth on a cobbled Parisian street in a full black skirt and a white bar jacket. But we are not here to talk about full skirts or the New Look. After 70 years of white-gloved elegance and dove-grey refinement, the house of Dior now stands for something else: feminism. For her Dior debut in the Muse Rodin in September last year, Maria Grazia Chiuri sent on to the catwalk a T-shirt with the slogan We Should All Be Feminists, the title of a Chimamanda Ngozi AdichieTed talk. So once Maria Grazia, as her team call her, has offloaded her D-fence saddlebag, a millennial-bait crossbody with the DIOR name spelt out in knuckleduster gold, on to the grey velvet upholstery, I ask her why she wanted to put feminism on the Paris catwalk.
Dior is feminine, she says. Thats what I kept hearing when I told people I was coming here. But as a woman, feminine means something different to me than it means to a man, perhaps. Feminine is about being a woman, no? I thought to myself: if Dior is about femininity, then it is about women. And not about what it was to be a woman 50 years ago, but to be a woman today.
Maria Grazia herself is very much a woman of today. Her naturally dark hair is bleached a platinum blond, offset by sooty black eyes; the effect, teamed with her all-black outfit (I am part of the generation that wears black, she shrugs), is equal parts Debbie Harry and Donatella. The pussy bow of her sheer black blouse is tied in a rakish slim knot which is Mick Jagger rather than Nancy Reagan. Her hands, barnacled with rings, have an aesthetic that is more Hells Angel than chauffeur-driven: an eagle spreads across three fingers, an enormous pearl balances on another, a jagged flash of green on the other hand.
Vetements revolutionary show, held in a department store, saw weird and wonderful display from alt-thinking label
Disruption is a vogue-ish word as overused in the modern fashion industry as iconic was in the last decade. But when evening wear at Paris haute couture fashion week means pink velour Juicy Couture palazzo pants worn with a promotional T-shirt for lager rather than ball gowns, then disruption is definitely happening.
The invitation to join the haute couture schedule extended to the alternative design collective Vetements, whose previous show featured Kanye West on the front row and repurposed Justin Bieber tour merchandise on the catwalk, is nothing short of revolutionary. Paris haute couture, which until now has maintained a defiantly pre-revolution Versailles image think organza and corsetry has taken a leap into the 21st century.
The Vetements show was held in the Galeries Lafayette department store. This is the haute couture equivalent of Alexander McQueen staging his 90s London Fashion Week shows in freezing, leaky warehouses. Department stores, where the clothes have price tags, are frankly dclass in the haute couture realm of the bespoke and unique.
Purchase and Refinance Real Estate Loans - Compare Our Very Competitive Rates, Programs & Get Pre-Approved Today! (424) 225 2167
“Loan approval is not guaranteed and is subject to lender review of information. Mortgage Loan is only approved when lender has issued approval in writing. Specified Real Estate Loan rates may not be available for all borrowers. Rate subject to change with market conditions.
“This licensee is performing acts for which a real estate license is required. C2 Financial Corp is licensed by the California Dept of Real Estate, Broker # 01821025; NMLS # 135622.”
C2 Financial Corporation is approved to originate VA and FHA loans, and has the
ability to broker such loans to VA and FHA approved lenders. C2 Financial
Corporation is not acting on behalf of or at the direction of HUD/FHA or the VA.
STATES WE LEND IN
“The services referred to herein are not available for property located outside the State of California”
We also have Licensed Loan Officers in: AZ CO FL HI NV OR TX WA
• FHA/VA approved • Managed by Principals with over 62 years experience in the mortgage industry • We have strict policies to ensure your confidential information remains confidential • Accurate up front rate and closing cost quotes. • C2 Financial Corporation is a Direct Lender & Broker Providing You an Awesome Loan Selection.
Call us today at 424 225 2167 One of our mortgage professionals will help you understand how a Purchase or Refinancing could benefit you. If you agree that a Purchase or Refinance is right for you, we’ll help and be with you through every step of the process and not hand you off to someone else.